“You and
Pinot, sitting in a tree…K-I-S- S-I-N-G!” I know, I know, I love it too. For
wine lovers, Pinot Noir is incredibly rewarding and intriguing. With its
velvety, silky texture, delicate fruit, vibrant acidity, hedonistic complexity,
food versatility, and incredible range, it’s downright sexy. It is also
understandable why Pinot is so popular, due to its sheer drinkability. Low in
tannin, it pleases most palates, and tastes great year-round. For winemakers,
it is a different story. Tannin comes from the skins. Pinot has a very thin
skin. This makes it very susceptible to disease and frost, and therefore
difficult and more expensive to grow and make. For consumers, it can be very
difficult to find a good value; you get what you pay for more than other
varietals.
We
all know Pinot Noir rocks. It’s easy to like and you can find great ones at
most price points nowadays. Why would you stray from it? What could possibly be
as delicious? I urge you to give Gamay a try, in the form of Beaujolais. Gamay
is a grape, a relative of Pinot Noir, and offers a similar weight and flavor
profile, easy-drinking tannin, and bright fruit. Beaujolais is a wine-growing
region in France between Burgundy and the Rhone Valley wine regions, and like
other European wines, is labeled by the region, and not the grape. So…don’t go
looking for “Gamay.” I’ll teach you how to find the right one for you. It won’t
be hard to find, since November is THE month for Gamay/ Beaujolais.
Beaujolais Nouveau: Easy to Find, Seasonal, for the New
Pinot Lover Beaujolais Nouveau is inexpensive ($15 and under) and made
for immediate consumption. The third Thursday of November has become a
world-wide holiday of sorts, appropriately known as “Beaujolais Nouveau Day.” It
is the day Beaujolais Nouveau becomes available for sale in most grocery stores
and wine
retail stores that participate. What do I mean by participate? Stores that
carry Beaujolais Nouveau have to order it in advance because it is harvested in August or September of the same year, then
made and bottled in time to distribute worldwide. The most recognizable and
influential brand is Georges Duboeuf, with the brightly-colored flower label;
this is the producer that invented the category of Beaujolais Nouveau. Start
here if you are new to red wines, or just want to give Gamay a shot without
investing a ton of money. You will get a light, fruity red that is easy to
drink, much like an inexpensive Pinot Noir. Drink it within six months of
purchase, or risk losing that fun, famous, delicious freshness.
Beaujolais-Villages: Harder to Find, Available Year-Round,
for all Pinot Lovers With a “normal” release time, usually the spring after
harvest, this category covers a smaller and superior area of the Beaujolais
region. More of the vineyard sourcing is from hillsides and therefore better
soils for Gamay to produce more complex wines. These are relatively easy to
find since the name “Beaujolais- Villages” appears on the label. Pinot Noir
usually takes up the lighter red category in retailers and restaurants, so you
may have to ask for these wines. The easiest one to find is made by Louis
Jadot, a relatively large producer for the Burgundy region. Beaujolais-Villages
are made to be drunk within two years of the vintage date for the best fruit
flavors, and are slightly more expensive than Nouveau.
Cru Beaujolais: Hardest to Find, Available Year-Round, for
the Hard- Core Pinot Lover A step up in
quality from Beaujolais-Villages, these wines are also produced from the Gamay
grape but hail from even smaller areas within the region. They are labeled the
same way: by the specific village. These can be a bit more difficult to find
because you need to know the name of the cru, or village. If Beaujolais is on the label anywhere, it will
be in very tiny print. There are ten villages to look for: Saint-Amour,
Juliénas, Chénas, Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Régnié, Brouilly
and Côte de Brouilly. Be prepared to spend a little more money, usually between
$25-35. Depending on the village and winery, you can expect different nuances,
just like other wines; however, in general, these Gamay offer fuller body and
more complexity. Many wineries that produce these superior Gamay are small,
family-owned operations. The best options are imported by Kermit Lynch Wine
Merchants. Look for this name on the back label for the most consistent
producers available in the market. Also look for the famed young Burgundy
superstar Vincent Girardin’s new “Domaine de la Chappelle” from Fleurie.
Gamay
is a varietal that is quite rewarding to discover and explore. A quick tip:
like other light reds, they taste best when you cool them down a bit. Stick the
bottle in the fridge for ten to fifteen minutes before drinking for the best
balance. Serve (or ask guests to bring) Gamay with your Thanksgiving feast this
year. Have a tasting comparing Pinot Noir and Gamay. And come December, don’t
be surprised if you hear, “You and Gamay, sitting in a tree…”

